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  • March 18, 2024 11:41
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March 18, 2024 11:41
These stamps have an ugly perforation. Is that normal? It cannot be measured either.
Moreover, I do not see the difference between Yvert's series 21-25 and 27-32.
According to that catalog they are all 13 or toothless.
In the Lastdodo number 28 is listed as 14 serrated and 1893 (in Yvert 1892). Quite confusing.
I would offer these stamps for sale, but I really don't know how to insert them correctly. Can someone help me?
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  • 6 messages
  • March 18, 2024 11:42
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  • March 18, 2024 12:51
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March 18, 2024 12:51
comics
There is a difference in perforation, and the leaves of the first series (Yt 21-25) had clearly just taken Viagra.
The stamps from your images hang limply, as in the 2nd series (27-32) .
The first series is perforation 13 1/2 - the second series is perforation 14.

With old furniture it may happen that there are specimens circulating with very poor perforation. Usually the perforation of old furniture cannot be measured digitally (only measuring, counting and calculating).
The system for making the perforation became less sharp after x copies, so that the perforation was no longer applied neatly everywhere.

There is also a third series (Yt 33 #38 ) from 1896. They are also 13 1/2 serrated. Also with limp leaves, but different colors.

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  • 6 messages
  • March 18, 2024 12:55
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March 18, 2024 12:55
Thank you
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  • March 18, 2024 13:15
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March 18, 2024 13:15
jogo
Best to check #9612249 . The leaves hang limp. I don't think it belongs in the 1891 issue?

Also take a look at 10.2 in the handbook regarding perforation variety ("The completely imperforate stamps are also not perforation varieties").

comics
The perforation stated in various paper and digital catalogs should be taken with a grain of salt. That is not always correct. In addition, there are differences in agreements/rules.
On LD, measurements are taken and rounded off to the nearest quarter. Just like a digital perforation meter does (e.g. the Perfotronic ).
That was once agreed upon on the forum. Unfortunately, none of this can be found in the manual...

There are catalogs that always round up, always round up, sometimes to the quarter but also sometimes to the half. You should check the general description of that catalog (usually the first pages).
So never just blindly copy perforation that is in another catalog without knowing the rules that apply there.
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  • March 18, 2024 13:25
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March 18, 2024 13:25
A quick refresher: how do you calculate the perforation by measuring and counting?

20 * number of teeth / distance (in mm)

You count the number of teeth, multiply it by 20, and divide that number by the measured distance (in millimeters).
It is best to measure complete cycles of the teeth.
Then you get an approximate perforation. Sometimes it is just a little above or just a little below. Please take this into account when adding or rounding (to the nearest quarter).

Catalogs that round up or down to the nearest quarter have a dilemma if the calculation yields 13.125. Then it is between 13 and 13 1/4.
Catalogs that round to the nearest half (I thought the Scott catalogue?) have a hard time if the result is just 3.25. This can then be either down (13) or up (13 1/2).
A digital perforation meter can also sometimes get confused. It is best to measure the stamp 10 times per side and use the most common measurement.
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jogo
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  • March 18, 2024 13:53
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March 18, 2024 13:53
Raoul62 Ok, wrong entry by me. I have already made one correction. That stamp is no longer in my possession!
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  • March 18, 2024 18:23
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March 18, 2024 18:23
This is probably known to you , but if not, here it is.
I haven't read up on it yet, but it also has some color recognition built in.
And with a quick glance, the manual also works with a color chart.

With this one, well known to you (= free), presented by Sielpost, you can measure teeth very well. It takes a little effort to download, but works well. Scan the stamp, straighten it, crop it, and you get a measurement on four sides. Tried several times and it works.
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